2 lb (1kg) eels; 1 large onion; 1 bay leaf; 1 table spoonful vinegar; 2 oz (60g) leaf gelatine; 1 sprig of parsley; 2 pints (1.2L) cold water; whites and shells of 2 eggs; salt; pepper.
Clean and skin the eels and put into a saucepan with the water and all ingredients except eggs and gelatine. Simmer until the eel is tender. Take out eel, cut into pieces and remove bones. Strain the liquid and return to the pan, and add the crushed egg shells and lightly whisk whites of the eggs. Add the gelatine and bring all to the boil. Simmer for 2 minutes and strain again. Line a mould with pieces of eel, add the jelly and leave to set.
1/2 lb (250g) flour; 1 level teaspoonful salt; 1/2 oz (15g) yeast; plus 1 level teaspoonful sugar; 1 oz (30g) butter or margarine; 1 egg; 1 oz (30g) sugar; 1/8 (75ml) pint milk.
Filling: 1 1/2 (45g) oz sugar; 1 1/2 oz (45g) currants; melted butter or margarine.
Glaze: 1 tablespoonful sugar; 1 tablespoonful milk.
Sieve flour and salt, put somewhere to warm. Rub in the fat. Cream the yeast and sugar together. Whisk the warm milk and beaten egg, and 1 oz (30g) of sugar. Add this to the creamed yeast and place in a well in the centre of the flour. Mix to a light dough. Knead until smooth and free from creases. Allow to rise till double its bulk. Re-knead lightly and then roll out into a square. Brush all over with the melted fat. Spread with currants and dust thickly with sugar. Roll up like a Swiss roll and cut into 1 1/2 inch (6cm) slices. Place cut side down on to a greased and warmed meat tin, 1 inch (3cm) apart. Prove (leave to rise) until touching. Bake in a hot oven 420F (210C) for 20 minutes or a bit more, reducing heat halfway through the cooking time. Brush while hot with hot glaze, or, alternatively, reserve a little of the beaten egg and brush with this before cooking.
NORFOLK DUMPLINGS – ‘Fillers’ & ‘Swimmers’
8 oz (225g) Self Raising flour; 1 teaspoonful salt, water
Mix the flour and salt (sifted) with water to make a dough. Mould pieces of the dough into balls, a good way of doing this is in the floured palm of your hand. Put in a steamer and steam for exactly 20 minutes. Do not remove the lid during the cooking time or the dumplings will spoil, and remember that dumplings are like soufflés – they will not wait. They are eaten both as ‘before’ and ‘afters’. Called ‘fillers’, they are served with gravy or with butter, or brown sugar. Called ‘swimmers’, they are served with jam or syrup.
Mackerel, vinegar, water, peppercorns
Start with very fresh mackerel. Remove heads and gut the fish. Split and remove the backbones. Roll from tail upwards and put in an earthenware dish. Just cover with a half-and-half mixture of vinegar and water to which should be added 1 pepper corn per fish. Cook for at least 2 hours in a simmering oven. Soused mackerel may be eaten hot or cold.
1 fresh rabbit, carrots, onions, white sauce, cheese, seasoning.
Joint a fresh rabbit, and stew for 1 hour with carrots, onions and seasoning. Then put the rabbit into a fireproof dish without the vegetables and cover completely with a thick white sauce very full of grated cheese. Cook in a moderate oven, uncovered, for 30 to 40 minutes. The sauce should brown but not boil. The carrots and onions are meanwhile kept warm and served separately when the rabbit is cooked.
BEEF OR MUSSEL PUDDING COOKED IN PAPER
Crust: 1/2 lb (250g) Self Raising flour; 3 oz (85g) finely-chopped suet; pinch salt water.
For beef: 3/4 lb (725g) stewing steak; 1 shallot, pepper, salt, a little water.
For mussels: mussels, pepper salt.
Method 1: Make the suet crust. If using beef, cut up the meat and shallot and season. Roll out the suet crust and lift it onto a piece of greased greaseproof paper. Put the meat and a very little water on this, tie up in a cloth, and steam for 3 1/2 hours.
Method 2: With mussels. Make the suet crust, roll out and put on the paper as in Method 1. Wash the mussels very well and remove bears. Put them in a pan on the stove- a very low heat so that the pan will not burn – and they will open almost immediately. Scoop them out onto the dough, season, wrap up as in method 1, and steam for 1 1/2 hours.
2 oz (60g) butter; 3 oz (85g) sugar; 4 oz (115g) currants; 2 eggs; almond essence; grated rind of lemon; a little nutmeg; curds from 1 quart (1.1L) of milk.
If you have no curds, boil the quart of milk with a dessert spoonful of lemon juice or vinegar. When separated, leave to cool after straining. Stir butter, sugar, well-beaten eggs in a pan until thick but not curdish. Add currants, spice, curds etc. Mix well, and when quite cold bake in pastry-lined tins (make some simple shortcrust pastry), 20 to 30 minutes according to size and tins.
EARL BARTON LEEK PIE
8 oz (225g) flour; 5 oz (140g) lard; water; 3/4 lb (350g) beef steak; 3/4 lb (350g) fresh rowey pork (streaky bacon); a few leeks; seasoning.
First stew the chopped pork and beef in the oven, then allow it to cool and set so the fat may be removed. Then wash, slice and boil the leeks. Make a pastry from the flour, lard and water. Take a pie-dish and fill it with alternate layers of meat and leeks, topping it with a layer of leeks. Cover with some of the gravy and put on the pie-crust, decorated with pastry leeks. Cook in a moderate to hot oven until the pastry is done.
HOCK AND DOUGH
4 oz (115g) flour; 2 oz (60g) lard; 1 1/2 oz (45g) suet; pinch salt; water; 4 oz (115g) minced stewing beef; sage; 1 fresh pork hock; gravy.
Rub the fat into the sifted flour and salt. Add water to make a dough, roll out and cut into two equal pieces. Roll these out to a size double the height of the sides of your meat tin and (between them) as long as its circumference. Spread onto each piece of dough the mince and chopped sage. (If you want to reduce the strength of the safe first dip it into boiling water). Fold each crust over and press the edges together. Line the sides of the meat tin with these two roll, put in the hock and surround it with sliced potatoes and onions. Pour over 6 tablespoonfuls of gravy (previously made from the pork trimmings) and cook in a hot oven 400F (200C) for about an hour.
1 lb (500g) potatoes; 1/2 lb (250g) onions; 1 oz (30g) cooking fat or lard; 4 oz (115g) grated cheese; pepper and salt.
Peel potatoes and onions and slice thinly. Heat the fat in a frying-pan and put in a layer of potatoes, then a layer of onions, then a layer of grated cheese. Season each layer with pepper and salt. Cover with a lid and let it all fry gently until cooked through (about 40 minutes), then brown the haggerty under a grill, and serve straight from the pan. Serve as a main dish, or with fried bacon.
Young rooks, flaky pastry, a little butter, flour, stock, salt, pepper.
Pluck draw and skin the rooks and remove the backbone, which is bitter. Season with salt and pepper. Stew in a little water. Place the birds in a pie-dish and cover with stock, thicken with butter and flour. Cover with pastry, and bake for 1 1/2 hours in a moderate oven 330F (160C).
Use full-cream-milk – 2 gallons (9 Litres) will make two small cheeses. Heat the milk to 90 degrees F. Mix in rennet in the proportion of 1 drachm to 1 1/2 gallons of milk (1 drachm equals 1 teaspoonful for every 7 Litres of milk). So for 2 gallons (9L) of milk use 1 large teaspoon or 1 1/2 small teaspoons. Top-stir till curd forms, then leave in a covered bucket for 1 1/2 hours. Mark the top of the curd with the Colwick hoop, slice off the two ‘tops’ and put them on one side. Line the two hoops with your muslin, then ladle the curd into the hoops. Leave to drain a little, then slide on the two tops and fold the muslin over the top of the hoop. Leave to drain again, then pull the cloths up and inwards, pulling the curd away from the edge of the hoop. Do this several times and while draining is going on. This will then produce the characteristic curling over of the edge of Colwick cheese. After 24 hours of draining the cheese should be firm enough to handle – do not turn Colwick cheese during draining. When really firm the hoop can be removed and the cloth pulled away; it is then ready to eat.
RUBY SWAN PIE
Swan meat, 2 onions, a little sugar, mixed herbs, salt, pepper, suet pastry.
Use only the finest meat of the swan, cut up into small pieces and stew gently for 3 hours in water seasoned with salt, pepper, herbs and onions. Strain and put meat into pie-dish lined with a suet pastry (make it with double the flour to just under half the fats – use half suet and half butter rubbed in to the flour and a little water to bind). Add chicken stock to the strained herb and onion water and reduce to a thick gravy. Add gravy, cover the pie, and bake at 400F (200C) for 30 minutes.
Take 1 lb (500g) each of lean young pork (traditionally ‘fat’ pork was used, but fashions in eating have changed) and finely-chopped beef suet. Mix together and add 1/2 lb (250g) breadcrumbs, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a pinch of nutmeg and chopped sage leaves, and 1 teaspoonful each of pepper, salt, thyme and marjoram. Mix all these ingredients together. Roll out the mixture into sausage shapes on a floured board. Dip each one into egg and breadcrumbs and fry in deep fat.
Cream together 4 oz (115g) grated cheese (cheddar for preference), 2 oz (60g) butter, and 2 beaten eggs. Add pepper and salt to taste and sufficient white breadcrumbs to make a stiff mixture. Form into dumplings. Roll in brown breadcrumbs and fry in hot fat until brown. These taste very good with tomato sauce.
Steam 6 apricots until tender, then remove their skins and cut them up. When they are cold add sugar to taste, 4 well-beaten eggs and a little thick cream (about 1/4 gill – 35ml). Line a well-buttered dish with puff pastry, pour the mixture into it, place in a hot oven and bake for 30 minutes. Then reduce heat and bake for another 15 minutes. Beat up the whites of 2 eggs, with a little caster sugar added to them. Put this on top of the pudding and return to the oven to brown for another 10 minutes.
First make a good paste crust (shortcrust pastry), then cut 2 rabbits into pieces, and 2 lb (1kg) fat pork (belly pork) also cut into pieces. Season with pepper and salt. Line the dish with pie-crust and put in the pork and rabbit. Take the rabbits’ livers and parboil them, and then beat them in a mortar with an equal amount of fat bacon, a little sweet herbs, and oysters if you have them. Season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, mix with the yolk of an egg and make into balls. Lay these here and there in the pie. Add a few pieces of chopped artichoke if liked. Grate a little nutmeg over, and then put in 1/2 pint (300ml) red wine and 1/2 pint (300ml) water, put on the lid of pie-crust and bake for 1 1/2 hours in a quick but not too fierce oven 300F (150C).
Make a batter with: 2 cupfuls milk, 3 cupfuls flour, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons warmed butter, 1/2 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful baking powder.
Other ingredients: vanilla essence, small strawberries.
Mix the milk gradually into the flour, baking powder, and then add the well-beaten eggs, the butter and the salt. Dredge 1 pint strawberries lightly with flour, stir them into the batter, and a little vanilla essence, and turn into a well-buttered mould. Twist a piece of greased paper over the top and steam for 3 hours.
1 duck, 1 large onion, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 1 oz (30g) bacon bits, 2 oz (60g) margarine or dripping, 1 gill (150ml) red wine or burgundy, 1 large slice of fried bread, parsley, 1 orange, (chicken) stock, seasoning, bay leaf, sprig winter savoury, sage, fat to fry.
Cut the vegetables into large pieces and roughly chop the bacon. Heat fat in a saucepan large enough to hold the duck. Fry the vegetables lightly in the bottom of the saucepan, and add the grated orange rind, bay leaf, the winter savoury, and the sage, just cover with stock and season. Put the trussed duck on the bed of vegetables, cover with greaseproof paper and put on the lid. Simmer gently for up to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the size of duck. Then add the wine and cook in a moderate oven, 350 degrees, for another 30 minutes.
Remove the duck, carve of the leg with the thigh, remove the skin, and fillet off the breast in one piece. Skim surplus fat from the stock and strain off. Thicken the skimmed stock, allowing 1 1/2 oz (45g) flour to thicken each pint. Serve the duck on the fried bread with sauce poured over. Garnish with orange and parsley. The duck can be jointed before cooking if it is a bit too old for roasting.