Glamorgan Regional Recipes
Glamorgan (South, Mid and West Glamorgan, which includes Cardiff, the capital city of Wales) is a county on the south coast of Wales, and these are a collection of local and regional recipes handed down within families who have lived and worked in the Glamorgan area. All of the recipes below are regionally authentic, originally coming from recipe books published in the 1800s or 1900s, with the weights and measurements adjusted (alongside the old standards) where appropriate for the modern kitchen.
CAWL LLYSIAU GARDD (GARDEN VEGETABLE SOUP)
2 lettuce, 1 cucumber, 3 leeks (or green onions), 1 stalk celery, 3 pints (1.8 Litres or 6 cups) chicken stock, 1/2 lb (250g) spinach, 3 medium onions, 4 oz approx (115g or 1 cup) old green peas or pea shells, 4 oz (115g) fresh young green peas, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon each basil and mint. cream for garnish (optional).
Serves 4-6. Prepare all the vegetables for cooking and slice up the onions, cucumber, leeks and celery. Put all the ingredients except the you green peas, basil and mint into a large saucepan and cook gently for 1 hour. Sieve it well or put through a vegetable mill and season to taste. Put back into a saucepan, add the fresh green peas, basil and mint and cook gently for about 10 minutes until the peas are just tender. Serve with a spoonful of cream in each plate if liked.
RHUBARB AND GOOSEBERRY JAM
4 lb (1.8 Kg) chopped rhubarb, 4 lb (1.8 Kg) unripe gooseberries, 6lb (2.75 Kg or 12 cups) sugar, 6 heads of elderflowers (optional), water to cover
Makes about 12 lb of jam. Top and tail the gooseberries and wipe the rhubarb before cutting into pieces. Put into a large pan with the sugar and barely cover with water. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly for about 1/2 an hour (30 minutes) or until a little jam put onto a cold sauces ‘wrinkles’ up when cold. Just before it is ready, plunge in the elderflowers and let them steep in the hot jam for 10 minutes, then remove them. Pour into warmed sterilized jars and seal.
PASTOID CENNIN (LEEK PASTIES)
12 large leeks (white part only), 1 teaspoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon sugar, pinch of salt, a little cream (optional),1 egg yolk, If using bacon as well, then allow 1/2 lb (250g) mixed fat and lean rashers
For the pastry: 1 lb (500g or 4 cups) flour, 8 oz (225g or 1 cup) lard, butter or margarine, 1 teaspoon baking powder if using plain flour, a pinch of salt, 1/4 pint (150ml 0r 1/2 cup) approx cold water
Serves around 6. Clean and trim the leeks thoroughly as a lot of soil can be retained between the layers of leaves. Trim the green ends and make a cross on that part. Stand the leeks in a deep jug of cold water, green end down, and leave for several hours. Cut the white part into 1 inch pieces and cook them in salted boiling water to which the sugar and lemon juice has been added for not more than 5 minutes. Drain well and let them cool. Make the pastry by rubbing the fat into the flour and salt then add the water slowly mixing well all the time. Turn out onto a floured board and roll out to a thickness of about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm). Cut into oblongs about 6 inches (15cm) long and 4 inches 10cm) wide. This amount should make about 12. Allow one large leek for each pasty, laying it along the middle of the pastry. If using cream add a very little to each pasty to moisten it and sprinkle with salt. Wet the edges with water and draw up the sides pressing well to keep the edges together. Brush over with beaten egg-yolk and bake in a hot oven 400F (200C) for 15-20 minutes.
GWLYBWR HUFEN (CREAM SAUCE)
1/4 pint (125g or 1/2 cup) fresh cream, 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon soft brown sugar, a squeeze of lemon, a little freshly ground black pepper, salt to taste.
Take the sugar, lemon juice and wine vinegar and mix together well in a bowl. Add in the cream and mix well again. Add salt and pepper to taste and mix. If preferred, a little more sugar can be used.
CELERY SAUCE
If the celery sauce is to be served with chicken or poached salmon then substitute the ham stock for chicken or fish stock.
2 stalks chopped celery, 2 oz (60g) seedless raisins, 1/2 pint (300ml or 1 cup) ham stock, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, pepper.
Serves 6. Melt the butter and stir in the flour. Add the warm ham stock and stir briskly to avoid lumps. Add all the other ingredients and simmer for around 10 minutes. Do not overcook as the crispiness of the celery acts as a foil to the meat it is served with.
SAWS GWIN (WINE SAUCE)
2 oz, (60g or 2 tablespoons) sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1/2 lemon rind in one piece, 1/4 pint (150ml or 1/2 cup) Madeira Red Wine (or sweet sherry Marsala or sweet red or white wine), 2 tablespoons water, 1 teaspoon cornflour (cornstarch)
To make the wine sauce: Boil the sugar, lemon rind and water for about 15 minutes then remove the rind. Thoroughly mix the cornflour into the butter and stir into the sugar mixture. Add the wine and let simmer gently for about 10 minutes until the liquid has become syrupy. Serve very hot in a sauceboat. Serves 4
SURYN CYFFAITH POETH (VEAL SAUCE)
3 lemons, 1 oz (30g) grated horseradish, 1/2 lb (250g) coarse salt, 2 pints (1.2 Litres or 4 cups) vinegar, 1 heaped teaspoon each of ground mace cayenne pepper and whole cloves, 1 tablespoon dry mustard
This sauce can be made well ahead and kept in screw-top bottles; it will keep for years. Cut the unpeeled lemons into small pieces and cover with the salt. Add all other ingredients and put into a large ovenproof dish with a lid. Stand in another dish with water coming up to within 2 inches (5cm) of the first container. Bring to the boil and boil steadily for 15-20 minutes. Remove the container with the sauce, leave the lid on and put into a cool place. Stir well once every day for 6 weeks, replacing the lid. Bottle at the end of this time, screwing the lid down tightly. This sauce is excellent with either hot or cold veal and a little goes a long way.
LAVER SAUCE
Laver is a smooth fine seaweed sometimes called sea-spinach. Wash, clean and boil the laver, then mix the prepared laver with a squeeze of orange and lemon juice, butter, and some juices from a roast lamb. Season well. Or using cream instead of the lamb juices this sauce is very good with lobster or other shellfish. This sauce can be served on toast or in sandwiches – or mixed with lemon juice and a little olive oil it makes a good side dish.
BARA LAVER (LAVER BREAD)
Laver is a smooth fine seaweed sometimes called sea-spinach. When found in its natural state it must be washed thoroughly to remove all sand and grit. It is then boiled in enough water to cover for at least 5 hours before draining. Once drained the laver has many uses. Laver can be bought ready prepared.
Mix the prepared laverbread (a misnomer as it is does not resemble bread at all but rather a puree) with a good sprinkling of fine oatmeal, shape into little cakes and fry in bacon fat. Serve with grilled ham or bacon, sprinkled with a little onion juice or lemon.
KATT PIE
For the Crust: 1 lb (500g) flour, 8 oz (225g) grated suet, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1 1/2 gills (225ml or 3/4 cup) boiling water
For the Filling: 1 lb (500g) lean minced mutton or lamb, 8 oz (225g or 1 cup) currants, 6 oz (170g or 1/2 cup) brown sugar, salt and pepper, a little milk or beaten egg
To make the Pastry: Boil the suet in the water for 5 minutes then stir in the flour mixed with the salt. Mix very thoroughly until the mixture leaves the sides of the bowl. Quickly, turn out on to a thickly floured board and roll out to a thickness of just under 1/2 inch (1.5cm). This should be done speedily before the suet hardens. When cool, cut two circles of the correct size for the tin or dish being used. Place one onto the greased tin and arrange the filling in layers: currants, sugar and mutton and season to taste. Moisten with water around the edges and put on the lid, pressing down tightly to keep the filling in. Make a small incision on top to allow the steam to escape, brush over with milk or egg and bake in a moderate oven for about 30-40 minutes. Eat Warm.
Serves 4. This recipe can also be made with short-crust pastry or have the suet substituted with butter or margarine. Although a deep pie dish enables the meat, fruit and sugar to combine deliciously, smaller or individual pies can be made.
CORGIMYCHIAID / BERDYS (PRAWN OR SHRIMP PASTE)
1 lb (500g) shelled cooked shrimps or prawns (retain shells), 12 oz (340g or 1 1/2 cups) butter, 1 lb (500g) filleted cod or fresh haddock, 1 teaspoon anchovy essence or paste, 3 filleted anchovies, good pinch of mace, cayenne pepper.
Serves 6. Shell the shrimps or prawns and put the washed shells in a pan, barely cover with water and boil for 1/2 an hour (30 minutes). Strain the liquid, retain, and then simmer the cod or haddock in the stock for 10 minutes. Lift out the fish and remove and skin. Reduce the fish stock on a high simmering heat until only about 1 tablespoon remains. Put the fish into it with the mace, anchovy essence or paste, anchovies and cayenne pepper to taste. Pound to a smooth paste. Add all but 2 ounces (60g or 2 tablespoons) of the butter and beat again until smooth. Put in the prawns, cutting up any large ones, and transfer to a saucepan. Heat together (but do not cook) for about 3 minutes until all is amalgamated then press into a deep china dish. When cool melt the rest of the butter and pour over the top, chill until wanted for use. When cut into it looks and tastes like a soft pink butter, studded generously with prawns. Serve with crisp toast or on crisp lettuce with brown bread.
GWIN MWYAR DUON (BLACKBERRY WINE)
Method 1. Place alternate layers of blackberries and sugar in wide-neck jars, cover with sterilized muslin to keep out insects [but allow natural air borne yeast] and allow to stand for three weeks. Strain off liquid and bottle adding a small handful of raisins to each quart bottle. Cork lightly at first till no bubbles of gas are seen then cork tightly. Keep at least 3 months before using.
Method 2. 2lb (1Kg) blackberries, 8lb (3.75 Kg) sugar, 2 gallons (9 Litres or 32 cups) boiling water, 2 oz (60g) yeast. Put the blackberries in a large earthenware or glass crock (demi-jon jar) and pour in boiling water. Cover with sterilized muslin and leave for 2 days stirring well night and morning. Strain off the liquid into a saucepan and dissolve the sugar in it over a low heat. Turn the heat off and add the yeast, spread on a small lump of sugar, and stir again.
Keeping some liquid back for topping up, transfer to a clean jar or crock (demi-jon jar) standing inside a pan to catch the overflow when fermentation begins. It will froth over the side and should be topped up from the liquid kept for this purpose. When it has stopped frothing, bottle and cork very loosely until no bubbles are to be seen, then cork tightly. To ensure clean wine, re-bottle when a sediment occurs at the bottom. Keep for 4-6 months before drinking. This method can be used for making all home-made welsh wines.
BLACKBERRY CURD
2 lb (1Kg) blackberries, 1/4 lb (125g) apples, juice of 2 lemons, 8 oz (225g) butter, 6 eggs, 2 1/2 lb (1.5 Kg) lump sugar, water to cover.
Simmer together the peeled and cored apples and the blackberries in water to cover until the fruit is soft. Pour through a sieve into a double boiler. Add the juice of 2 lemons, butter and the sugar. When all has dissolved, add the well beaten eggs and stirring all the time, continue cooking until the mixture thickens. Pour into sterilized warm jars and seal as for jam. Makes approximately 5-6 lb.
SGADAN – HERRINGS (Potted Herrings)
6 filleted herrings, 1/2 teaspoon anchovy essence or paste, 4 tablespoons melted butter, 1 bayleaf, pinch of mace, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, water or fish stock
Serves 4-6. Put the filleted herring with the bayleaf and a pinch of mace in an oven-proof dish and barely cover with water or stock. Cover with foil and bake in a moderate oven 350F (180C) for 20 minutes then let them cool slightly. Lift out the fish and remove the skin and any small bones that may have adhered to the rib cage. Pound them well, mixing in the anchovy essence or paste, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste. Put into a jar or pot, pressing the contents down firmly and when quite cold pour the melted butter over the top. Serve cold on toast or yeasted oatcakes.
SWPER MAM (MOTHER’S SUPPER)
8 large bacon rashers or ham slices, 4oz (115g or 1 cup) grated Cheddar or hard cheese, 2 medium peeled and finely chopped onions, pepper and a little salt depending on saltiness of bacon or ham
Serves 3-4. Put half the bacon in the bottom of a shallow fireproof dish then cover with the finely chopped onion and a layer of cheese. Season each layer with pepper. Put the remaining rashers on top of the cheese and cook in a moderate to hot oven 375F (190C) for half an hour (30 minutes) or until the bacon is crisp. Traditionally served with either baked potatoes or with Crempog Las (Green Pancakes).
CREMPOG LAS (GREEN PANCKES)
8 oz (225g or 2 cups) plain flour, 2 eggs separated, 4 tablespoons milk, 2 teaspoons chopped parsley, pinch of grated mace or nutmeg, salt, small amount of fat or oil to grease the pan
In a basin put the flour, salt pace or nutmeg and the beaten egg yolks. Mix well with a fork then stir in the milk, beating until it is smooth. Whip the egg whites until stiff, add the chopped parsley and finally fold in the egg whites ensuring that they mix into the batter at the bottom of the basin as well as the top. Very lightly grease a large heavy pan and when very hot, pour in the batter mix. When the underneath is golden, turn and cook the other side until golden. Spread with butter and cut into 4 (triangles) for serving with Swper Mam (Mother’s Supper). If preferred, 4 separate pancakes can be made.
WYSTRYS (OYSTERS – GOWER OYSTER SOUP)
3 pints (1.8 Litres or 6 cups) defatted mutton or lamb broth, 4 dozen (48) shelled and prepared oysters, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 level tablespoons flour, 1 large sliced onion, croutons of fried bread, a pinch of mace, salt and pepper.
Serves 4-6. Simmer the onion, mace, salt and pepper in the mutton broth for about 1/2 hour (30 minutes) or until the onion is quite soft. Strain the soup and reserve the liquor. Heat the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and gradually add the strained broth, stirring well to avoid lumps. When smooth, simmer very gently for 10 minutes. Put the prepared oysters into a tureen or individual bowl and pour the boiling soup over. Serve at once with croutons – triangles of crust-less bread fried until golden in oil.
SELSIG SIR FORGANNWG (GLAMORGAN SAUSAGES)
2 separated eggs, 1 tablespoon grated onion, 1 teaspoon dry mustard powder, 6 oz (170g or 1 1/2 cups) hard cheese grated, 10 oz (280g or 3 cups) fresh breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoon fresh mixed herbs, flour for coating, crisp breadcrumbs for coating, salt and pepper, oil or pork fat for frying
Makes about 20. Mix together the cheese, fresh breadcrumbs, mustard, herbs and onion. Season Well. Add the well beaten egg yolk and stir thoroughly. The egg whites are whipped until frothy but not stiff. Sprinkle flour on to a board and form the mixture into small sausage shapes. Roll each sausage into the egg white and roll again in the crisp breadcrumbs. Fry several at a time in hot oil or fat.
PASTAI FFOWLYN CYMRAEG (WELSH CHICKEN PIE)
1 jointed and boned chicken (chicken stock reserved and fat removed), 4 thick slices of ham (gammon or tongue), 1 small onion or shallot peeled and minced, 8 tablespoons (1 cup approx) cooked leeks or parsley, 1 teaspoon caster sugar, pinch of mace or nutmeg, 1 pint (600ml or 2 cups) approx reduced chicken stock, 4 tablespoons warm cream
For the Pastry: 8 oz (225g or 2 cups) flour, 4 oz (115g) butter, 1 egg, 2 tablespoons water, salt
First make the pastry by adding salt to the flour then working the butter into it. Beat the egg with the water and add to the flour, mixing well. Turn out onto a floured board and roll into a large ball then put in a cold place until needed.
Using a deep pie dish, put in the leeks or parsley on the bottom making a 1/4 inch (1cm) thick layer. Lay the ham or tongue on top and finally add the boned chicken, seasoned with the minced onion, sugar and mace or nutmeg. Pour in sufficient chicken stock so that it covers the boned chicken. Roll out the pastry to size, damp the edges of the pie dish with cold water and lay the pastry on the top, Press the edges down well, marking them with a fork and brush a little milk over the top. Cut a slit in the top to allow steam to escape and bake in a moderate oven 350F(180C) for about 40 minutes or until the top is golden brown. Just before serving make the slit in the pastry a little bigger, have the cream warmed, but not boiling, and pour the cream into the pie. If serving cold, the stock will be a thick jelly, therefore, omit the cream. This pie can be made with other fowl or feathered game. Serves 6.
TAFELL O GIG LLO RHOST (ROAST FILLET OF VEAL)
3 lb fillet or boned loin of veal, 1/2 lb fat pork or bacon cut into slices, 1 pint (2 cups) water, 1/4 pint (1/2 cup) sherry
For the Stuffing:
3 oz (1cup) breadcrumbs moistened with 2 tablespoons milk, 2 tablespoons grated suet or melted butter, white part of 1 leek chopped, 1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme, pinch of nutmeg, slat and pepper
Mix all the stuffing ingredients together and stuff the boned joint. Put the joint into a roasting tin and put the fat pork or bacon crisscross over the top. Pour the water around, cover with foil and bake in a moderate oven (350 degrees F) for 1 1/2 hours. Remove the foil for the last 1/2 hour to allow the top to brown. Add the sherry to the pan juices and reduce rapidly on top of the stove. Serve with Welsh Veal Sauce.
SURYN CYFFAITH POETH (VEAL SAUCE)
3 lemons, 1 oz (30g) grated horseradish, 1/2 lb (250g) coarse salt, 2 pints (1.2 Litres or 4 cups) vinegar, 1 heaped teaspoon each of ground mace cayenne pepper and whole cloves, 1 tablespoon dry mustard
This sauce can be made well ahead and kept in screw-top bottles; it will keep for years. Cut the unpeeled lemons into small pieces and cover with the salt. Add all other ingredients and put into a large ovenproof dish with a lid. Stand in another dish with water coming up to within 2 inches (5cm) of the first container. Bring to the boil and boil steadily for 15-20 minutes. Remove the container with the sauce, leave the lid on and put into a cool place. Stir well once every day for 6 weeks, replacing the lid. Bottle at the end of this time, screwing the lid down tightly. This sauce is excellent with either hot or cold veal and a little goes a long way.
TEISEN AFAL (AVALLON ‘APPLE’ CAKE)
½ lb (250g) apples, 6 oz (170g) sugar, 5 oz (140g) butter, 1 lemon rind/peel grated, 2 eggs, 8 oz (225g) flour, 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda, 1 teaspoon, ground ginger, 1 teaspoon ground mixed spice, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 4 oz (115g) currants, 4 oz (115g) raisins, 4 oz (115g) mixed chopped peel, 2 oz (60g) chopped walnuts.
Peel, core and chop the apples, stew them with 1 oz (30g) sugar and a little water. When they are soft strain and leave them cool. Cream the butter and sugar and the grated lemon rind until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one by one. Fold in the flour sifted with the bicarbonate of soda and spices. Stir in the dried fruit and nuts. Mix all of this together, then carefully stir in the stewed apples. Turn into a greased and lined 7 inch (18cm) tin and bake at 350F (180C) for 1 to 1 ½ hours (60 to 90 minutes) until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean.
TEISEN CARIAD (LOVE CAKE)
1 lb apples, 2 oz (60g) sugar, 2 eggs, 4 oz (115g) self-raising flour, 30z (85g) caster sugar, 30z (85g) butter, 6oz (170g) icing sugar, 1 lemon.
Shortcrust pastry: 8 oz (225g) flour, 4 oz (115g) butter, 4 oz (115g) caster sugar, a little milk
Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into a saucepan with the 2 oz (60g) sugar and a little water. Stew the apples until they become soft. Use the back of a spoon and push the stewed apples through a fine mesh sieve to make a puree. Make the pastry by rubbing the softened butter into the flour, add the sugar and mix with a little milk until a stiff paste is made which can be rolled out. Line a buttered an 8 inch (20cm) sandwich tin with the rolled out pastry (bottom and sides of the tin). Spread the cooled apple puree all over the bottom of the tin on the pastry base. In a mixing bowl cream the butter and caster sugar and grated lemon rind until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs and lastly fold in the flour. Spread this batter mixture carefully over the apples. Bake at 375F (190C) for 35 minutes, until the cake is firm and springy to the touch. In a bowl blend the icing sugar with a little lemon juice to make a thin icing. Spread the icing over the cake while it is still warm.